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Vida Cantina
If you look too quick, you might think you were at Friendly's.
"So people see an old Friendly's building here and they don't know exactly what's going on. They drive by once, twice and they decide to come in."
And while the service here may come with a smile, this ain't no chain ice cream shop. This is Vida Cantina.
Mexican cooking is something chef/owner David Vargas was born to do.
"I'm raised in Southern California. My mother's from Guadalajara. My father's from Jalisco. My parents opened a restaurant when I was young, a little Mexican restaurant and it's kind of been in my blood."
So he's taken all of the traditional recipes he learned along the way and brought them to this bright, festive eatery in Porstmouth, New Hampshire. And whether you're in a party of 4 or 40, seating is never an issue, because while the inside of this restaurant looks nothing like the Friendly's it once was, it's retained one practical feature- the signature Friendly's space dividers.
"So if you come in as a bigger party than four we're able to pull the dividers out and kind of seat you. So that's one of the biggest features that Friendly's has left their mark here and we embrace it."
Back in the kitchen, David makes memorable Mexican dishes like the light and refreshing Tuna Ceviche, to the heavy and hearty Cheese Enchiladas, to the tasty Mexican Street Corn topped with crema, cotija cheese and spices.
"The corn itself is beautiful but then we top it with all of these beautiful ingredients and it's out of this world."
For something that's certainly original, try David's signature Blue Corn Bread. Baked to order and served in a skillet, this twist on cornbread uses blue corn meal to give it a different look with all that same great taste.
"It's topped with a little bit of jalapeño butter right on top so by the time it gets to you. The butter is slightly melted right all over the corn bread and you just dig right in with a spoon."
If you want to dig into something hot and cheesy, grab a chip and plunk it into Vida's Goat Cheese Fundido. Or for a more traditional start, order up a bowl of guacamole and sample one of Vida's Salsa Flights.
"You can try three different types of salsa. It's our salsa fresca, our salsa verde and our mango habanero. So kind of three different levels of heat to it."
Tacos at Vida Cantina are most definitely an art David has been perfecting since childhood.
"Tacos are a fun thing. They're becoming a big thing through to the country right now. But tacos to me have been a thing that I've been doing for a long time."
And the key to his taco making success, is attributable to double wrapping each one with TWO corn tortillas.
"To me what makes a great taco is not just a single shell. It has to have a double shell. Nothing worse than picking up a taco and all the ingredients falling out the bottom."
And when they're stuffing those tacos, they don't skimp on the fillings. There's fried fish topped with slaw, avocado and salsa fresco and unctuous Confit Pork Belly topped with cotija cheese and mango salsa. But it's the slow cooked Barbacoa di Carne braised in chipotle broth that's truly a show stopper.
"It tastes amazing. The barbacoa itself is so juicy and tender, you can eat it plain right there but then you put it on top of two corn tortillas that are just incredible themselves and then you add the cilantro and the onions that are really fresh and then the salsa to finish it off. That's the perfect balance."
Vida Cantina also serves traditional tortas- Mexican sandwiches served on the same fluffy telera bread David enjoyed as a child.
"It's all about that soft white telera bread that really makes that torta and brings back that nostalgia of being home again."
This white Mexican roll provides a great base for sandwiches like the Cubano- made with pastrami, seared queso fresco, bacon and pickles with a dijon jalapeno crema spread, or the Fried Fish Torta dredged in blue corn meal and topped with jalapeño crema, guacamole, pickled red onions and cabbage slaw. But the favorite on the menu is the appropriately named 'Numbah One' torta.
"So the number one is our pollo asado which has been pounded thin. And then it's been breaded, fried, and then we toss that in a boom lime salt and then put it on the bread with chipotle aioli, guacamole, local lettuce, local tomatoes, a little bit of queso fresco. It tastes like heaven."
And while you won't find a Watermelon Roll or a Fribble on the dessert menu, you will find traditional Mexican Churros, housemade ice cream and Mexican Poletas.
"A poleta is basically a Mexican popsicle and we do it here with local organic fruit. We've done the blueberry. Right now we have a roasted peach on and then we just kind of move throughout the season."
And while executing authentic Mexican cuisine ain't easy, David can't imagine doing anything else.
"This is what I love to do. It's an art and I love being an artist and I love being able to put it out there every single day and I think that's the best feeling I have and especially seeing that smile on people's face when they take that first bite of anything that we've created. I think it says a lot."
