Stella

You know what’s the worst? When there’s a restaurant you go to all the time, you love the food, it’s just always a good experience, and then suddenly, they close their doors, and you’re devastated. Well, this is the story of a restaurant re-birth.

The name of the eatery is Stella.  It’s located on Comm. Ave in Newton, Mass near Newton Centre.  But you might remember the original Stella , it was located in Boston’s South End, and it was always packed, they were in business for over 15 years, before it closed in May of 2020.  Thanks Covid!  Anyway… Now Stella is back, baby!  Chef/owner Evan Deluty recently opened up a smaller, more intimate version of the original.  And this new suburban version of Stella may not have the trendy scene that was in the South End, this has more of a cafe kind of vibe.  But they’re serving many of the same Italian dishes that made Stella so popular in the first place.

The atmosphere here in Newton is very casual. There are white subway tiles and a chalkboard menu.  There are only about 15 seats in the whole place, and they do not take reservations.  But they are open for lunch and dinner, and they offer dine-in, takeout, and delivery.

The menu is very concise, but it has everything you want, so let’s check out some of the must-order dishes.  Starting with the arancini. These are Sicilian style rice balls, very golden and crispy on the outside, with slow-cooked risotto and mozzarella cheese on the inside, served over some delicious tomato sauce.

And of course, their meatballs go great with the tomato sauce as well.  And they’re made a little differently than a lot of places. Stella’s meatball recipe includes ground beef, chicken, egg, bread, fresh herbs, and garlic. And they’re topped with a dollop of ricotta cheese for some added richness. So these are soft and juicy and really full of flavor. And having some chicken in there keeps them lighter than you might expect.

I think the most underrated appetizer is the Zucchini Pillows! Check these babies out, it’s thin-sliced zucchini, that’s wrapped around some fresh mozzarella cheese, that gets breaded and lightly fried. It’s just a beautiful presentation, this is delicate and delicious. Served over a tomato and basil ragu with a drizzle of basil oil.

Pastas are what really put Stella on the map.  And I can’t tell you how excited I am that their legendary Bolognese is available once again! This has been their most popular dish since day one, and it’s Chef Evan’s tried and true recipe.  We’re talking Rigatoni pasta that’s cooked with slow-braised beef, pork, pancetta, herbs, red wine, and tomato.  It is rich, and creamy, and comforting, and very, very filling in the best possible way. Definitely one of the best bowls of Bolognese anywhere in Greater Boston.

My other favorite pasta dish is the Orecchiette, which is the little ear-shaped pasta. They make it with some sweet Italian sausage, broccoli rabe, oven-roasted tomatoes, and garlic with a sprinkle of Parmigiano-Reggiano. So, not only does it taste great, this thing is absolutely incredible.

They also offer some excellent daily specials, like this Chicken Milanese that’s nice and crispy and served with a fresh salad.

And you can even get a great sandwich here. Specifically, the Chicken Parm sub.  I mean, how could you go wrong with this?  They make a perfectly seasoned, nicely fried panko-crusted chicken breast. Top it with some slow-roasted tomato sauce and a nice layer of fresh mozzarella cheese. And it’s served with a side of delicious, piping-hot, hand-cut fries.

And even though this place is definitely an Italian restaurant, you can find some surprises on the menu, especially believe it or not the Matzoh Ball soup.  Chef Evan grew up just two miles from the restaurant, and this is his homage to the neighborhood, they call this stuff "Jewish Penicillin" for a reason.  It’s made with a robust chicken and vegetable broth, big fluffy matzoh balls, and nice fresh chunks of chicken and it’s the perfect kind of comfort food for a neighborhood restaurant.

So whether you loved the original Stella in Boston, or you’re just looking for some outstanding food that’s reasonably priced and you don’t have to pay an arm and a leg for parking in the city, you should definitely check out the new Stella restaurant on Comm. Ave in Newton.