Laurel
Phantom thinks it's amazing that Corey Comeau, the chef at Laurel in Boston, is in his first gig at the helm of a kitchen at only 25.
Atmosphere(8)
What used to be the loud and somewhat cheesy "Blue Wave" is now very subdued. Very comfortable, elegant, and soft. But, Phantom was a little chilly sitting by the window.
Menu(9)
Phantom opened and closed his menu several times before deciding. From vegetarian to red meat, lots of inventive options.
Portions(9)
Reasonable portions left Phantom sated but not stuffed. On the large side for cuisine of this level of sophistication.
Appetizers(8)
Lobster & Quinoa with chive oil, fennel jus, & smoked tomato coulis lacked any intense flavor (it doesn't belong on a winter menu). But the sauteed shrimp with herbed risotto and perfectly pungent gorgonzola was rich and satisfying.
Food and Drink(9)
Braised tender lamb shank with pumpkin risotto was something special: the fats dissolved into the slowly cooked meat that needed no prodding from a knife. The Lemmon pepper pasta with seared scallops and shrimp was a surprisingly memorable dish. The scallops were so soft, chewing was optional.
Desserts(7)
Chocolate flourless cake featured a delightful mousse, but the cake was spongy and not rich enough. And the crepes with caramelized bananas and pecans needed more sweetness.
Service(9)
Phantom's server never loomed too closely for comfort, but was never far enough away that he couldn't get his attention.
Cleanliness(9)
Dining room and all its contents sparkled. Clean bathroom.
Parking(7)
A little too far from the Arlington T stop, between the Back Bay and the South End. Valet parking runs $9.
Value(8)
Appetizers for about $10; entrees average about $20. Of all the Boston restaurants that will run you $100 for a meal, this is one of the better options.
