Salem Cross Inn
“They only serve this meal a few times a year, but if they had it, I would eat it every single day of my life.”
This is the story of a feast, a fireplace, a horse-drawn wagon, and the world’s biggest bowl of whipped cream. Hidden away among the rolling hills and sprawling farmland of West Brookfield, Massachusetts, sits the Salem Cross Inn. An historic, 600 acre property that dates back to the 1700’s, lovingly restored by the Salem family. It’s open year round, but on select nights November through April, the restaurant transforms and turns back time to New England’s colonial culinary roots, with something called the Fireplace Feast, now run by third generation family member Evan Leasca. “This is a one of a kind restaurant. You know, you really take a step back in time into the 18th century here. That's how it was designed, all the way back through the 50’s, when they were renovating the property. So you're able to really enjoy a taste of New England here at the Salem Cross Inn.
The Fireplace Feast is more than just a meal, it’s a fully interactive experience. So before we get to their famous chowder, prime rib, and apple pie, the evening starts with a horse-drawn wagon ride. "This is how they got around in the 1700’s, and now we’re going to eat like it’s the 1700’s." And after the ride, it’s time to head inside to warm up by the fire… A seriously roaring fire that just happens to be cooking 6 massive slabs of prime rib we’ll be eating for dinner.
But first, some snacks… “Little cheese and crackers never hurt anyone, especially me. Now we got to heat things up with some mulled wine. Come on." Using antique mulling irons pulled straight from the fire, burgundy wine and local apple cider are heated up with a blend of spices. “People ask me how hot it is. I'm like, it's red hot, and you can see the nice aroma that's filling the air as well.” “The heat brings out the natural sweetness and the wine, and then you have all those classic warming spices. I'm thinking clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, it just tastes like autumn and winter in a glass. And it's delicious. Cheers from 1776!
Next up, Clam Chowder is fired up using an 1800’s recipe from a Native American tribe in Rhode Island. And this course takes some crowd participation. “So it tastes better the more people that come and give a hand. We bring out a big antique 20 gallon cauldron, and we set that on the hook, right over the fire, right next to it, so it's roaring hot.” “Come on up, stand up out of your chairs and come gather around the fire. Let's have some fun.”
The chowder is made with salt pork, sea clams and quahogs, along with two types of stock, fresh pollack or hake, and heavy cream… and customers take turns putting on the fire-proof gloves and stirring it all up. “I've always been good at stirring the pot, but this is ridiculous. "Alright Who wants chowder?” “It's an unforgettable experience to come stir next to such extreme heat and then 15 minutes later, you're upstairs enjoying what we just made downstairs. Some people don't even believe it's the same chowder.”
Back to the hearth for the juicy main course: Fireplace Prime Rib coated in a blend of Colonial herbs and spices, cooked over high heat with little New England style ingenuity. “So we're cooking today, 130 pounds of prime rib using real open flame in the hearth itself, cooking with a roasting Jack, which is an antique device that was the first form of technology to ever enter the modern kitchen… So all you have to do is utilize the free energy and gravity, and as long as you know how to operate it.” “Now this is my kind of plate of meat and potatoes, colonial style. The way they cook this in the fire adds to the flavor. It also helps regulate the temperature so the entire side of beef is cooked to that perfect pink, medium rare. Let's slice into this baby. Juicy, nice, rare color. This is exactly the way prime rib should always be cooked, super juicy, well seasoned, very savory. It is literally melting in my mouth. And my mouth is so happy. And they'll give you seconds if you want it.
But make sure you save some room, because dessert might be the best part of the whole meal.” An award-winning Deep dish, one crust apple pie ends the Fireplace Feast, but it’s not complete without a little… or a lot of their famous homemade whipped cream. “So for the feast tonight, we'll have 18 quarts of freshly whipped cream and a great big antique bowl.” "Are you kidding me…. Anybody want whipped cream?” “So I'll ask you if you like it or you love it, and the more enthusiasm you give me, the more I'll give you. Do you like it or love it, love it?" "Do you even have to ask I like it? Or do I love it? I absolutely love it. I really love it. Yeah, I love it. “This is the New England experience, is what I call it"Where else can you enjoy a feast?... We create a festive environment to complement the amazing tasting food."
