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 PHAN-TASTIC DINING
No.9 Park is a rare pleasure where the understated décor allows the honest, fresh dishes to shine. Chef Barbara Lynch gets a lot of press, but she backs it up with serious flavor and some of the city’s best pasta.
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From a 19th century mansion, No.9 Park takes a classy, vintage approach with jeweled chandeliers and artsy black and whites. The adjoining café is equally stylish and understated, finished with Italian marble tables and an inviting bar. |
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Chef/owner Barbara Lynch masters country European cuisine that’s extremely elegant and upscale. Rare wines from boutique vintners keep the wine list interesting. |
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Starting with a PERFECT 10, the earthy, warm squash salad mixed with sumptuous pumpkin, crisp apple shards, and toasted pumpkin seeds, punctuated by sharp cider vinaigrette. The decadent stuffed gnocchi achieved pure bliss with puffy clouds of potato dough pursed around sweet prunes, all topped with crumbled almonds and morsels of seared foie gras. |
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Next, a dainty Colorado lamb chop glittered with salt, and a braised, shredded version of the same tender game piled into a sweet Vidalia onion cup. Although the Duet of Pheasant tasted like chicken, it was incredibly moist and plump, glistening in crispy skin, all finished with savory bacon emulsion. |
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For dessert, the superlative creamsicles were like childhood treats for an adult palate. Twin popsicles of sweet Bahri date ice cream wore a hard chocolate shell, aside a heavenly chocolate soufflé cake and Assam black tea ice cream over crispy rice candy. |
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Eaters beware! Tiny portions are appropriate for the 7 or 9 course tasting menus, but they come up short when ordered a la carte. |
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Silk shirted servers scored a PERFECT 10 for their astounding wine knowledge and unpretentious delivery. |
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Also impeccable, cleanliness carried into the café, where customer can order off a less expensive, more casual menu. |
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Phantom was so intoxicated with pleasure, he barely blinked at $16 appetizers and entrees at $29 to $45. |
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No. 9 Park is the ultimate Beacon Hill destination, overlooking the Boston Common and the gold domed State House. |
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Review Date:
1/21/2006 |
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