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Great Ate of 1997

Phantom's "Great Ate" restaurants of 1997 are 8 of his favorite restaurants of the year. They may not be the eight highest scores; sometimes a restaurant makes the list after a return visit or positive FEEDback from the PhanClub.

Ristorante Marcellino (Italian)
16 Cooper St.
Waltham, MA 02453
(617) 647-5458
www.marcellinorist.com

Marcellino is a simple, but pretty restaurant with Italian music, white tablecloths, and an open kitchen. The restaurant prides itself on serving authentic Italian cuisine, and each dish is prepared beautifully. The chef checks on customer satisfaction himself. Phantom warmed up his taste buds with one of his true loves, bread with olive oil. He also sampled delicious Chicken Soup and Pasta Fagioli. Marcellino offers great pizza. Phantom ate the best Spaghetti with Calabria-style Bolognese Sauce he's ever had.


Anthony Alberto's (changed to Ristorante Massimo) (Fantastic and Formal)
59 Penhallow St.
Portsmouth, NH 03801
(603) 436-4000
www.anthonyalbertos.com

Housed in the basement of the historic Customs House, Anthony Alberto’s boasts exposed brick and stone walls, cellar arches, and mahogany walls. It’s the ideal atmosphere for a special dinner, perfect for clinching a multi-million business deal or starting a romantic tryst. The menu is authentic Northern and Southern Italian with a wide range of pasta, meat, and seafood made with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Start your meal with Quail and Black Truffle Risotto or Pheasant Ravioli, and proceed on to Sole with Lavender, Roasted Shallot and Crawfish Sauce along with a selection from the award-winning wine list.


Black Cow Tap & Grill (Newburyport) (Holy Cow)
54 R. Merrimack St.
Newburyport, MA 01950
(978)499-8811
www.blackcowtapandgrill.com

Tastefully decorated with lots of rich wood, the Black Cow Tap & Grill is the ideal choice for a sumptuous meal. Incredible ocean views are the backdrop for dining on the contemporary New England cuisine. In warm weather, the cool sea air can be enjoyed on the outdoor deck, and the large fireplace is the perfect place to be during the colder months. Begin with traditional New England Clam Chowder or unconventional Szechwan Peppercorn-Crusted Tuna Sashimi. Main dish highlights include Crab and Shrimp-Stuffed Rainbow Trout and Molasses-Glazed Grilled Pork Loin. Save room for the decadent desserts such as the Flourless Chocolate Ganache Cake or the sinful Mocha Hazelnut Tort.


Eat (closed) (What's in a Name?)
253 Washington St.
Somerville, MA 02143
(617) 776-2889
www.eatrestaurant.com

Eat is trendy and old-fashioned at the same time, and Boston's hot chefs visit both to cook and to dine. Phantom got started with heavenly fried clams, wonderful white truffle pizza, and a great mushroom tart. The menu is eclectic and fun, phantom sampled the spaghetti and meatballs, spicy seafood stew, and roasted chicken with stuffing and mashed potatoes. The desserts are not the strength of the menu. Phantom complains that the apple pie and yellow cake were a bit dry, although the Christmas ice cream was delicious. The portions are large even by phantom's glutinous standards; the roast chicken would serve two, and the oyster chowder is a meal all by itself. Appetizers average six dollars, dinners average thirteen. Phantom's best bet is the pork chop with dried cherries and mashed sweet potatoes.


Grill 262 (out of business) (Contemporary Continental Cuisine )
262 South Water St.
Providence, RI 
(401) 751-3700

With its second floor dining room overlooking the providence river and its oh-so-chic atmosphere, even the phantom could impress a date at grill 262. The Grill serves contemporary continental cuisine with superb seafood and pasta dishes. The Crab Cakes were wonderful. Phantom's Mahi-Mahi special with Mashed Potatoes and Spinach and the Wood-Grilled Salmon were two of the best dishes he’s tried in weeks. There’s a great bar downstairs, offering refreshing mixed drinks, wines, and ales. The Chocolate Mousse Cake was scrumptious.


Publick House (Sturbridge) (Tasteful History)
277 Main St. (Route 131)
Sturbridge, MA 01566
(508) 347-3313
www.publickhouse.com

The Publick House has a long, proud history that now includes being one of Phantom's "Great Ate" restaurants. Both the Trout and Bass were superb. The Lobster Pie was chock full of sweet, meaty crustacean. Phantom got his meal off to a good start with Country-Style Pate and a delicious version of one of his favorite appetizers, Baked Stuffed Mushrooms. The portions are reminiscent of a time when farm work produced ravenous appetites. The Roast Beef and Turkey entrees were enormous. Even the fruit plate appetizer looked big enough to be a complete meal. The service was perfect to the point that the staff was actually anticipating, instead of merely accommodating, each request.


Strawberry Fair (Perfectly Ripe)
14 Pond St.
Norwell, MA 02061
(781) 878-7878

Strawberry Fair should be renamed "Strawberry Excellent." “Old-fashioned goodness served in a charming New England Farmhouse” is their moniker, and this place feels like a rustic bed-and-breakfast in the middle of rural Vermont (without the bedrooms). The restaurant is decorated with a strawberry motif down to the tablecloths, place mats, and even bathrooms. Aside from the outstanding breakfast and weekend brunch, this place serves up great lunches and dinners. The dinner menu is divided into two sections, Yankee Specials and House Favorites. Homemade Honey Wheat Bread with Strawberry Butter is flat-out the best the Phantom has EVER tasted.


Oak Room (Special Occasion)
Fairmont Copley Plaza
138 St. James Ave.
Boston, MA 02116
(617) 267-5300
www.theoakroom.com

The Oak Room is a gorgeous, luxurious restaurant. High ceilings, rich, dark wood paneling, and mounted animal trophies give it the air of an Edwardian Club. Service is formal, so don’t be alarmed if your wine bottle disappears from the table; one of the staff will return to refill your glasses at the exact right moment. The menu includes the usual steakhouse lineup, but the Oak Room’s renditions are fresh and worthy of one’s attention. Appetizers like the Crab Cakes are fabulous and the Duxelle Stuffed Mushrooms are even better. Entrees are a panorama of perfectly grilled red meat and seafood. The Oak Room may be underrated in Boston because the food isn’t “cutting edge,” but Phantom thinks that criticism is totally undeserved.

12/30/1997